tasmania day 1
a few years ago, I got a call from a lovely girl named Debbie, who works with Tourism Tasmania on their Go Behind the Scenes campaign. She asked if I’d be keen to spend a few days exploring Hobart and its surrounds. I didn’t hesitate for a second—A) I love travelling for work, and B) after nearly nine years in Australia, I’d still never been to Tassie. Isn’t it always the way? We ignore what’s right on our doorstep. I lived in Melbourne for four years and never did the Great Ocean Road. Still haven’t been to Uluru either… shakes head.
The plan was for me to be paired with a local Tassie blogger who, along with Debbie and the Tourism Tas crew, would guide me through a three-day food and drink tour in and around Hobart. I’d get to experience the region from a proper insider’s perspective—and I felt very lucky to be handed such a unique opportunity.
That blogger turned out to be the gorgeous Michelle Crawford from the beautiful Hugo & Elsa blog. I’d admired Michelle’s styling through mutual friends in the food and photo world, but we’d never met in person. So I was thrilled to hear she’d be my guide (wait until you see her house in my Day 3 post… serious house envy alert!).
Flights were sorted, accommodation booked, and I flew out of Sydney on a Tuesday evening, landing in Hobart just after 8pm. A quick 20-minute cab ride later and I arrived at the stunning Henry Jones Art Hotel—where I was upgraded to a suite. Winning!
After settling in, I headed to the bar for a nightcap and had a great chat with a very hipster-but-lovely barman. The staff were friendly and efficient—attentive but not overbearing. Always a good sign in a high-end hotel.
DAY 1
The next morning, after a solid sleep and a tasty breakfast at the Henry Jones, I met Michelle in the lobby. She was warm, down-to-earth and easy to chat to—I knew we’d get on like a house on fire.
Our first stop was a café called Smolt, where we met Mary McNeill, the woman behind Gourmania Food Tours. Over coffee, Mary gave us a bit of her background and explained how the tour came to be. She also gently corrected my (very dodgy) geography—I’d thought Hobart was at the top of Tassie. (Launceston is up there, Katie. Not Hobart.)
Mary whipped out a fold-out map and showed me the route we’d be taking over the next few days. Then, she suggested I skip breakfast... because our first stopS wERE a BEAUTIFUL CLOTHING BOUTIQUE AND THEN A cheese shop. At 9.30am. Followed by whisky. At 10. Only in Tassie!
OUR FIRST STOP WAS The Maker, and oh my lord—I wanted everything. Beautiful natural-fibre clothing and homewares, lots of Japanese influences, and a stunning selection of ceramics, jewellery, toys and textiles. I took a few snaps and bookmarked it for a proper browse on Saturday.
The Maker is run by Leonie Struthers, who designs the LJ Struthers label. Fun fact: Leonie is married to Nick Haddow, the man behind Bruny Island Cheese.
Bruny Island Cheese Co. (Salamanca Shop)
SPEAKING OF THE BRUNY ISLAND CHEESE CO. We NEXT wandered into a quaint little cheese shop in Salamanca, part of the Bruny Island Cheese Co.
There, we met Tori, the shop manager, who talked us through the local range. As a cheese nut, I was in heaven. My favourite was a washed-rind cheese called OEN, wrapped in vine leaves and washed in Pinot Noir. Not usually my go-to style, but this one was lush—soft, fudgy, and super flavourful. Michelle bought a wedge for us to share later that night.
Then came our 10am whisky tasting (don’t judge). At Lark Distillery, we met the legendary Bill Lark, the father of Tasmanian whisky. He had a cosy tasting room ready for us, complete with four generous pours (43%–58% proof!) and a beautiful cheese platter. Yes, at 10am. This is the kind of tourism I can get behind.
Bill shared how Lark began over a whisky in the highlands with his father-in-law. Tasmania had everything: clean water, barley fields, peat bogs. He thought, “Why isn’t anyone making whisky here?” And so it began. Today, the distillery is a family affair, with Bill’s daughter Kristy among the world’s youngest female distillers.
Next stop: carbs. We dropped into Pigeon Whole Bakery, a spotless, just-opened space run by Jay and Emma Patey. Famous for their sourdough apple doughnuts (yes please), everything we tried was fantastic. I also adored their branding—super stylish.
Ethos Eat Drink
Ethos Eat Drink was one of Hobart’s most fascinating dining spaces—housed in a beautifully restored building dating back to the 1820s, complete with original weatherboard walls and even Tasmania’s oldest plumbed toilet, circa 1900 (!).
Their concept was bold and refreshingly simple: no menu, just a daily list of ingredients, with a six- or eight-course tasting menu built around whatever had arrived fresh that day. Diners were in the hands of a passionate kitchen and front-of-house team, with sommelier Alice Chung expertly matching wines to each dish. I didn’t dine there myself, but the interiors alone had me swooning—especially the striking vintage glass-bottle chandeliers and the thoughtful preservation of the building’s history.
Its closure is a real loss to the Hobart food scene, but I’ve chosen to keep the photos in this post as a small tribute—Ethos was without a doubt one of the most beautiful spaces I’ve ever had the pleasure of photographing.
By now we needed caffeine, so Mary took us to Ecru, a tiny takeaway coffee bar owned by Richard Schramm (who also owns Villino). Richard’s passion for coffee was palpable—he spoke about beans with the same reverence a winemaker has for his grapes.
We then popped by the quirky and very cool Alabama Hotel, where I tried SEVEN SHEDS Black Inca, a stout-style beer brewed with oats, quinoa and Peruvian chocolate. Normally not my thing, but it had an unexpected cherry note I really liked. The Alabama is a brilliant little budget-friendly hotel—kitschy, colourful, and packed with charm. Definitely on my list for next time.
And finally—lunch. I was fit to burst by this point, but when we arrived at Pilgrim, all good intentions flew out the window. This was my favourite find of the day.
I ate alpaca. Yep. Slow-cooked Peruvian-style alpaca, served with quinoa, beetroot purée and sheep’s milk feta. Soft, tender, rich—completely delicious. I also tried their Tasmanian mushrooms with polenta and slow-cooked eggs. Then Matt, our lovely waiter, surprised us with a honey-glazed pear dessert with toasted brioche, seeds and walnuts. Heaven.
Pilgrim doesn’t do dinner yet but they’re expanding soon. I went back again over the weekend—I loved it that much.
Let's just say I was totally. blow. away. From the minute we stepped onto the ferry I knew this was going to be an experience to remember. Amazingly fitted out in a very fun, graphic and eccentric manner ~ in a good way, there is a VIP area you can access for a few more $'s, which gives you free drinks and a plush lounge to chill out in, en-route to the museum. But other parts of the ferry are just as cool and offer the same views on your approach.
Once you arrive at MONA be warned, you will have to clamber up 99 steps - yes, 99 to be precise, not 100, 99. Inside you will be blown away. I, nor Michelle were allowed to take any shots within the museum due to artist copyright laws but I can only attest, if you go to Hobart, you simply MUST vista MONA.
It was the total highlight of my trip. And, like Pilgrim, I returned again on the Saturday for a second helping, when I had some free time to myself. The exhibitions are fun, forward-thinking, graphic, mind-boggling, thought-provoking and crazy fun and interesting. MONA is without a doubt the best art gallery I have been to to-date, be it here in AUS or overseas. I won't say much more, as you have to experience it for yourself first hand, without and preconceived notions or ideas. But prepared to go with and open mind and be ready to be blown away both visually and mentally.
